Friday, October 13, 2017

Iceland: The Southern Coast

On our second full day in Iceland, we set off to explore the southwestern coast of Iceland. Our out-and-back car ride took us to Vik, with multiple stops each way. The landscape is beautiful -- very rugged and moonscape-like at times. We saw some Icelandic ponies in fields as well.

Scenes from the drive to Skogafoss

Allie, Matt, and Paul were in one car

We stopped at a viewing spot for Eygafjallajokull, also known as "E15" for the letter 'E' and the 15 letters that follow it! E15 is the name of the volcano that most recently erupted in 2010 and caused lots of disruption of air travel between Europe and North America. 

Hennekes family with E15 in the background (snow-covered).
We then drove a little further to see Skogafoss, one of the beautiful waterfalls along the southern coast. Parking and entrance is free to all of the sites we visited -- although they do request a small donation to use the toilets by the parking lot. Skogafoss was amazing -- the sun made rainbows and double rainbows appear in the mist almost the entire time we were there. Everyone except me and Charlotte made the trek up the cliff to see the falls from above. They reported there were MANY stairs and I wasn't disappointed in my choice to not go up. Charlotte loved the black rocks at the base of the waterfall and she spent a lot of time tossing rocks into the river.

View of the approach to Skogafoss from the parking lot
Charlotte and me at the base of the falls
Throwing rocks
View of Skogafoss from the top of the cliffs 
Looking down toward the parking lot from the top of Skogafoss

After leaving Skogafoss, we continued on all the way to the small town of Vik, which is known for its black sand beaches. We had lunch at one of the only restaurants in town (with a lot of tourists! many of whom were drying their socks with the hand dryers in the bathroom -- ew). After lunch, we walked along the path behind the restaurant to the sea. It was very dramatic seeing the waves crashing on the black sand and feeling the mist from the wind across the water. Charlotte and I found a spot somewhat out of the wind to play in the sand while the rest of the crew walked out toward a jetty for more pictures. The sand was very black and surprisingly silky and soft to the touch. I had anticipated a rough texture since it's from volcanic/pumice stone, but I was definitely wrong.

View of rock formations off the coastline of Vik
Trekking along the sandy path to the beach
Surf at Vik
The sand really is black!
Charlotte enjoyed piling the sand on her legs


Mom and Dad at Vik
After leaving Vik, we headed back west and stopped at Reynisfjara beach, which is very close to Vik. It is known for its hexagonal volcanic columns, known as basalt sea stacks, similar to those at Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland. The wind was FIERCE and it was pretty cold! We tried to pay close attention to the surf because the waves were huge and there were signs warning us about "deadly sneaker waves" which are much higher than the normal surf and can "sneak" up on you without warning. (Yikes!) Charlotte loved climbing all over the basalt columns -- like a natural playground for her.

Reynisfjara Beach
Basalt sea stacks -- so cool!
Watch out for deadly sneaker waves!
Hard to judge from photos, but these waves were really huge!

Mom, Charlotte, and me trying to stay out of the wind at the sea stacks


Little climber!
Next, we drove a little further west to Dyrholaey, which is a viewpoint over the ocean near Reynisfjara Beach. There is a large sea arch to be seen there, as well as views down across the beach toward Selfoss. During certain months, puffins roost in the cliffs, but we didn't see any during our stop.

View to the west of Dyrholaey
Sea arch at Dyrholaey
Rock formations in the ocean off Dyrholaey

Our final stop of the day, as it was starting to get a little dark, was at the beautiful Seljalandsfoss. This waterfall is unique because there is a pathway to walk behind the falls. It was quite wet and windy back there, and a little bit of a challenge to walk through -- hard to photograph but definitely worth it! Charlotte had fallen asleep in the car, so we took turns going and walking behind the falls.

Seljalandsfoss



View from behind the falls! Wet and windy!
Afterwards, we headed home and relaxed! It was a long day of exploring but probably my favorite day there.
The Instagramming Danzigs <3

Iceland: Geysir & Gulfoss

In mid-February, we flew from Stansted to Reykjavik, Iceland to meet up with my family! Our little family arrived somewhat late on a Thursday night into Keflavik airport, then struggled to leave the airport as the taxi driver didn't know how to leave the taxi corral area! There was a barrier that required a special transmitter, which the driver didn't have because he was driving the car for someone else (?). He took us back to the taxi queue, where we unloaded everything (including Charlotte's carseat) and started to get into another taxi, when the original driver apparently figured out how to exit after all, so we loaded back into his car. Meanwhile, Charlotte had a lot of (admittedly appropriate) questions about why we were getting in and out of all these cars!

We stayed a night at a hotel in Keflavik, and got up very early for a quick breakfast before meeting up with the rest of my family who flew in early Friday morning on red-eye flights from Baltimore and San Francisco. They had picked up the rental cars and drove into Keflavik to pick us up. We then headed through Reykjavik at early rush-hour, and out towards Selfoss on the southern coast to check into our AirBnb. It was strange driving at morning rush-hour in darkness -- the sun didn't rise until around 9:15 am while we were there! Sunset was around 6:15 pm, so we had a decent amount of daylight. We chose wintertime to visit in hopes of seeing the Northern Lights, but it was not to be, as Iceland was covered with fairly heavy cloud cover each night except the last one of our visit.

We found our AirBnb, which was awesome but a little challenging to find! We were glad our first approach to it was in the daylight, because it was definitely tricky (off a series of smallish dirt roads and not easily viewed from the road, with no house numbers on the road!). The family members who had flown overnight took naps, and then we headed out to visit a few sights within an hour of the house.

Our first stop was at the town of Geysir, which is home to ... geysers and hot springs. It was pouring rain when we arrived, so we decided to eat lunch first in the large tourist center across the street from the hot springs. We then crossed the street in the cold and windy rain to see the hot springs. Paul, Matt, Allie, and Dad ventured all the way up the path to see the biggest geyser, but Mom and I stayed back with Charlotte (who wasn't particularly thrilled with the weather or the attractions!). It was neat to see the steam rising off the land where the hot springs were located. 






We then hopped back in the cars and drove to Gulfoss ("Golden Falls"), which is one of the largest tourist attractions in Iceland and part of the "Golden Circle" drive that tour buses often take. It continued to rain, and Charlotte had fallen asleep in the car, so we took shifts getting somewhat soaked as we went to see the view. It was quite impressive!! It's a huge two-step waterfall that looks like it is falling down into the earth, as it's hard to see the river below from the clifftops where the viewing platforms are. We didn't get great pictures because of the weather, but it was definitely impressive.



After seeing Gulfoss, we headed back towards our AirBnb and stopped at a grocery store on the way. We stocked up on basic supplies and groceries for meals -- and were definitely sticker-shocked by the prices. Iceland doesn't make much of it's own food -- so it's all imported. This makes everything very expensive, especially the meats -- we saw a pack of bacon (about a pound) for the equivalent of $30! We didn't buy that bacon.

We got home in time to take a few pictures of the landscape around the house before dark. It's almost like a moonscape in places, with the volcanic rocks being very prominent. Almost everything is covered with a mossy top (at least in southern Iceland where we were staying). There are also very few trees anywhere, so you can see long distances. That evening we had dinner at home and went to bed fairly early.

Looking east from our AirBnb

Thursday, October 5, 2017

Horsey Beach Seals

In late January, we took a weekend day trip east to Norwich to Horsey Beach. We had been hoping to get out there to see the winter seal colony since the previous winter. We drove the two hours on a day that was very overcast and rainy, and lucked out with better weather at the coast. We tried to visit a National Trust site called Horsey Pump, which is a windmill that helped drain the fens (swamplands) in the area to create arable land. It was marginally open, in that we could walk around the canals there, but the visitors center was closed and *gasp* there wasn't even a tearoom open! We had counted on that for lunch! (Again -- we're so British now.) We ended up subsisting on snacks until we found a fast food spot on the way home from the beach.

The windmill (under construction) at Horsey Pump
Along the canal at Horsey Pump National Trust site
After our brief visit to Horsey Pump, we drove the short distance to the seaside parking lot. We had a bad GPS position initially, but eventually ended up in the right spot. We paid for 2 hours to park, and started our walk. It's impossible to know exactly where the seal colony is when you park, and we ended up being quite a walk from where the seals were actually resting on the beach... probably 1/2 to 3/4 mile. Charlotte, having just returned from Portugal and discovering her love of sand, really wanted to stop and play -- and we realized we were under a bit more of a parking time crunch than we had planned. Paul ended up carrying her on his shoulders a lot of the way, since walking in the sand is hard! (True for everyone, but especially for 3 year old legs.)

"But I just want to dig in the sand!"
Our trek to the seals
We finally reached the larger crowd of people standing around where the seals were resting on the beach. We walked around and found a comfy spot in the sand to sit and watch the seals in action. They are so cool to see in nature -- so awkward while flopping around on the beach, but so agile in the water. We did see a few seals in the water, but most were snoozing on the beach and making lots of wild snoring and braying noises. Charlotte was interested briefly, then returned to her main love -- sand. We enjoyed watching them for about 45 minutes then headed back to the car -- this time on the other side of the dunes (much easier). There were lots of puddles on the dirt path, and Charlotte was thrilled to have her wellies for stomping in some of the more shallow ones. 


Not rocks -- seals!
Smiling baby seal


Relaxed seal pup
Seals in the water








We found a faster way back to the car on the other side of the dunes
We caught a beautiful sunset on the way home!